St. George's: Take Aback
Visitors to St. George's find themselves transported to a town firmly rooted in the 1600s.

Who knows how or why? All you know is that you find yourself in the Bermuda Triangle, when all of a sudden you hurtle back in time to 1862. Brace yourself. When you open your eyes, you no longer see the Bermuda of the website, but the Bermuda of the 19th century, the historic town of St. George — "St. George-ees," as the locals call it.

You are sitting in the kitchen of the old Tucker House, where Joseph Hayne Rainey has set up a barbershop. Rainey, the son of freed slaves, has fled the U.S. Civil War, which rages just 600 miles west of Bermuda. As he trims a customer's salt-and-pepper beard, Rainey has no clue that in a few short years he will change the history of the United States. He will become the reunited nation's first black congressman.

As your modern-day self will learn by visiting the Bermuda Heritage Museum, at Water and York streets, St. George's has long been a bastion of human rights, especially for blacks.

Many of the Africans who helped found Bermuda now rest in St. Peter's Slave Graveyard. Nearby is Pilot Darrell's house, another important stop on Bermuda's African Diaspora Trail. In 1795, self-educated slave James Darrell piloted Admiral George Murray's ship into Murray's Anchorage. Darrell so impressed the admiral that he called for the slave to be freed. Darrell went on to become the first black man to purchase property in Bermuda.

A spirit of liberty, democracy and rugged individualism has pervaded St. George's from its earliest days. It was on these east-end shores that 17th-century survivors of the British Sea Venture gave thanks for their lives. It was here that the heart of Admiral George Somers was buried in 1610. A few years later, this town became the island's first capital, a distinction it would bear until administrative control moved to Hamilton in 1815.

Given its enduring history, it is no surprise that St. George's became a treasured UNESCO World Heritage site. The year 2009 heralds a special milestone: St. George's actual, if not official, birthday. The town was chartered in 1612, but settlers have lived here continuously since the Sea Venture went down in 1609.

Learn more of the lore by stopping in the visitor service bureau that welcomes travellers to St. George's, located at Caffe Latte on York Street. Sign up for their guided tour or just pick up a free copy of Experience Bermuda and set off on your own.

Special Series Celebrating Bermuda 400th Anniversary

A lecture series running from Tuesday September 22nd through Saturday November 7th as a collaboration between the St. George's Foundation and the Association for the Preservation of Virginia Antiquities which stems from a shared mission to promote and preserve history. Lecturers from Bermuda and Virginia will discuss Bermuda related artifacts found at Jamestown Rediscovery as well as Bermuda's archaeological heritage. Lectures will be held every two weeks beginning Tuesday September 22, 2009 to Saturday November 7, 2009. Visit our events section for additional information.

Getting to St. George's

Before your journey to the past, you first have to get to the present-day St. George's, which could not be easier. Take advantage of Bermuda's excellent public transportation, arriving in St. George's by taxi, bus or ferry.

Getting there is half the fun on board the Sea Express ferry. The ferry offers a scenic and comfortable journey with six daily trips to St. George's (from Hamilton, via Dockyard) from April 7 to October 31 only. Or take a leisurely Bermuda Breeze bus ride from Hamilton via routes 1, 3, 10 or 11. The one-way fare from Dockyard is $4 for adults and $2 for children (ages 5-16; under 5 ride for free). The one-way fare from Hamilton is $8 for adults and $4 for children (ages 5-16; under 5 ride for free). The most popular method of payment for visitors is the Transportation Pass, which is good for unlimited rides on the bus and ferry system. Passes cost $12 for one day, $20 for two days, $28 for three days, $35 for four days and $45 for seven days. This route can also carry cycles at a cost of $4. If travelling on the ferry, please ensure you have purchased your tickets, tokens or passes in advance to travel on all routes, since cash is not accepted. Call 295-4506 for ferry information and 292-3851 for bus information. To access information via the Internet, go to www.seaexpress.bm or www.bermudabuses.bm.

Or enjoy a bigger adventure by renting a fun scooter at Oleander Cycles, whose shop is located on York Street (297-0478). Oleander is Bermuda's No. 1 cycle livery and offers quality scooters at competitive rates. You will receive safety instructions in a private practise area. The St. George's location is open seven days a week. They have other shops located at Valley Road, Paget (236-BIKE), Gorham Road, Hamilton (295-0919), Middle Road, Southampton (234-0629), and Cockburn Road, Dockyard (234-2764).
(www.oleandercycles.bm)

Uncovering the Past

Once you arrive in St. George's, you have no trouble finding your way around. Water Street runs east and west following the waterfront. Behind it and running parallel for much of its length is Duke of York Street. Stitching them together are narrow side streets with delightful names like One Gun Alley, Convict Lane, Printer's Alley, Duke of Clarence Street and Old Maid's Lane.

Begin your tour of St. George's with a visit to the World Heritage Centre, located in an 1860s customs warehouse at Penno's Wharf. A gallery shows several hundred years of early Bermuda history and a free 10-minute orientation film, A Stroll Through St. George's. Make a $5 donation and receive a small gift. Hours are 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., Monday to Saturday, April to October. (297-5791, www.stgeorgesfoundation.com)

Continue your tour at King's Square, the historic heart of the charming town and the scene of the annual Peppercorn Ceremony in late April. With great pomp, city officials accept the annual rent in the amount of a single peppercorn for the Old State House, according to an agreement with Freemasons made early in the 19th century.

Costumed interpreters such as Alison Outerbridge, dressed in colonial garb, bring to life such characters as a 17th-century housewife whose habitual nagging earns her a punishment that leaves her soaked and sputtering. For the benefit of bemused visitors, Outerbridge gets strapped to an old-time ducking stool and plunged into the water. "Like falling off a log," she says nonchalantly. "Sometimes that water is quite cold, but the tourists love to see me take my punishment."

Tourists like to get into the act as well. It's a rare day that you don't find sightseers posing for pictures in a replica of the stocks used in the 1600s to punish colonists who committed minor offences. The square also has a pillory, in which those convicted of more egregious crimes were forced to stand for the length of their sentence, and a whipping post, for which few visitors volunteer.

It is no punishment, however, to live in St. George's. Quite the contrary, says Outerbridge. For a lover of history who leads tours throughout the town, St. George's is a bit of heaven.

Just beyond the square on Ordnance Island is the imposing statue of Sir George Somers, the shipwreck survivor generally honoured as Bermuda's founder. Created by the famed Bermudian sculptor Desmond Fountain, the impressive statue was unveiled in 1984 by Princess Margaret.

Across the way is a replica of the Deliverance, one of two small ships that the Somers party built to continue their interrupted journey to Jamestown, Virginia. You can tour the ship for a small admission charge.

Leave the square and climb the steep stone steps up to St. Peter's Church, the oldest Protestant house of worship in continuous use in the New World. The first building was erected on this site in 1612.

Chronicler William Strachey, who was amongst the original shipwreck survivors, writes that the first church was built of cedar logs and palmetto thatch. Bermuda cedar still adorns the interior. Inside the church sits Bermuda's oldest surviving furniture, along with its first currency, "hogge money," dating from 1616 and a magnificent collection of silver.

Behind the church, on Broad Alley, is the Old Rectory, probably the oldest home in Bermuda. It got its name because it was once the abode of a popular parish priest. Now owned by the Bermuda National Trust, it welcomes the public Wednesday afternoons from November to March.

Stroll past the Old State House on Princess Street. Dating to 1621, it was the first civilian stone structure in Bermuda. It makes a great subject for photography because of its age and noble architecture.

The St. George's Historical Society Museum is housed in an 18th-century home furnished with pieces from the period. The kitchen is a favourite of visitors. Also in the museum are a 300-year-old Bible and a letter written by George Washington.

Formerly called the Confederate Museum, Rogues and Runners is a display devoted to the era of blockade running during the U.S. Civil War. Find it in the former Globe Hotel on Duke of York Street.

Bridge House, behind King's Square, is now a private home. Built of wood in the 1600s, it was rebuilt in stone in the early 1700s. Some of the most important people in Bermuda's history lived here. One of them was Robert Dinwiddie, the governor of Virginia before the American Revolution. Another was Bridger Goodrich of Virginia, who remained loyal to the Crown, fled to Bermuda during the Revolution and took to sea as a privateer.

Out and About

So many interesting places await to be seen in St. George's. But attractions are not confined to the town alone. Nearby are many sights not to be missed.

One of the first stops just outside of town is the Unfinished Church. Construction began in 1874, and then stopped. The congregation argued and split. The project ran out of funds. It was abandoned by 1900. In any case, it is an interesting place to see and photograph.

The lighthouse on St. David's Island has been guiding sailors since 1879 and became internationally famous in 1977, when it was featured in the movie The Deep. Climb to its balcony for an endless view. It opens to the public from May to September.

Do not miss a visit to the forts. Many were built around the coast of St. George's to defend it against invaders.

At the entrance to Town Cut is Gate's Fort, built in the 1620s. Even earlier, in 1612, the small fortress called Fort George was built on a hill west of town. As restoration continues, parts of this site are open to the public. Stop to see what's new in the restoration and get a breathtaking view of the ocean.

At Fort St. Catherine, now under renovation, see a restored magazine, weapons of all types, from pistols to muzzle-loading guns, and an audiovisual presentation on Bermuda's many forts. About a mile away, on Barry Road, visit the Alexandra Battery, built to defend Narrows Channel.

Cool off any time with a visit to the beaches. Some great ones grace the St. George's area.

Tobacco Bay is a beautiful, sheltered, secluded beach — a favourite with visitors and locals alike, and especially popular with families. If you are looking for the perfect tan, a refreshing swim or a snorkelling adventure around the rocks, Tobacco Bay is the place to visit. The clear, shallow water ensures safety for kids. Facilities include a deck dining area that specialises in local cuisine, a beer-and-wine bar, a gift shop, and braiding services. They also rent snorkel gear, umbrellas and loungers to make your day comfortable and fun. Tobacco Bay is the family fun place in St. George's. (297-2756)

Other outstanding beaches are Gates Bay, where survivors of the Sea Venture shipwreck came ashore in 1609; Frobisher's Buildings Bay, where the Deliverance was built in 1610; and Achilles Bay, where you will find Blackbeard's Hideout, a popular local spot with a casual atmosphere and delicious food.

Clearwater Beach has Gombey's Restaurant & Bar, where you can find island eats, cocktails, music and snorkel gear. Turtle Bay is also public, and Mullet Bay Park has a small beach. Private boats go ashore on Paget Island. Beaches are public, but only up to the high-water line.

Anglers will also be happy in St. George's. Several licensed captains offer well-equipped sportfishing boats for charter out of the east end. The best fishing is from April to November, but feisty wahoo and tuna still take the bait during any season.

For those who would rather land some great purchases, St. George's is the place to find special mementos of a magical holiday. Some Hamilton stores operate branches in St. George's, alongside unique boutiques selling arts, crafts and other Bermudian products.

Treasure Hunting

Carved cedar boxes, plaques and bookends are lovely, fragrant reminders of your stay here. Also look for dolls dressed in Gombey costumes or made from banana leaves.

Jewellery and paintings often depict Bermuda's round moon gates that make for popular wedding photos, as well as the longtail bird, which announces the arrival of spring.

Take home beautiful Bermuda stamps, antique books, maps and postcards, and don't overlook such culinary delights as pepper sauces, rum cakes and honey.

Turn heads with a seductive new fragrance, some of which are concocted right here in St. George's. The Bermuda Perfumery welcomes visitors to its location in St. George's. Since 1928, The Perfumery creates and manufactures fine ladies' and gentlemen's perfumes under the brand Lili Bermuda. Come for a unique olfactory experience and to discover how perfumers create fragrances. This year, The Perfumery is introducing Petals for women, Somers for men and South Water in its unisex Water Collection. The Perfumery's modern fragrances will inspire you to experiment with different types of scents. The shop opens Monday to Saturday 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. in winter. (293-0627 , www.lilibermuda.com)

Silver and shell jewellery really shine at Cracker Box, on York Street by the main bus stop, where you also discover seashells, T-shirts, Bermuda caps, straw hats and beautiful Bermuda water-colour prints by Amy Evans. You will find Bermuda-themed gift items, from mugs and shot glasses to wooden frogs, cats and little Bermuda houses, too. When in Hamilton, do not forget to visit their other store, The Hodge Podge, located behind the ferry terminal. (297-1205 St. George's, 295-0647 Hamilton)

Crisson Jewellers, a family business since 1922, embodies Bermuda's finest and most cherished traditions. The Crisson name is synonymous with quality and value. In St. George's, you will find two Crisson stores, one on York Street (297-0672) and the other on Water Street (297-0107). Both offer boutique-style shopping with a distinctly Old World flavour. The atmosphere is relaxed and intimate, yet you will find the same eclectic collections, value and prices as in Hamilton.

For a big selection of Bermuda-made goods, Dockside Glass & Rum Cakes, located just off King's Square, offers vibrant hot glass in its small shop. The store also welcomes you with a taste of its Bermuda rum cakes, as well as classic art, small collectibles and handmade jewellery. Their Bermudian artists have been very creative and busy. The shop opens every day 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.; until 9 p.m. when a ship is in port. (297-3908)

The English Sports Shop, best of the traditional Hamilton stores, also offers colourful Bermuda shorts, blazers, ties and resort wear for men and women — unique, fashionable souvenirs of your visit — in its St. George's location at Somers Wharf. (295-2672)

The Island Shop is a must-visit for unique ceramic and linen products, all designed by Barbara Finsness. Her resident and visitor comments include, "Finally, a beautiful shop to buy our gifts," and "I want to buy everything in your store." Barbara's designs are colourful and tropical, reflecting the best and longest-lasting images of Bermuda. The Island Shops were winners of the Best of Giftware award in The Bermudian magazine. Each item is specially made and labelled with her signature. New designs are continuously added to the collection. (297-1514)

Makin' Waves has been Bermuda's headquarters for active sportswear for over 20 years, featuring surf brands such as Quiksilver, Roxy, O'Neill and Billabong, sunglasses from Oakley and Maui Jim, and dive and snorkelling equipment by Mares, Dacor, Sherwood and Atomic Aquatics. With three locations — Water Street in St. George's, Front Street in Hamilton and the newest location in Dockyard — Makin' Waves is able to supply residents and visitors with the best in active sportswear for island fun in, on or under the water. (297-0546)

Taylors, housed in an historic location, offers a charming selection of traditional Scottish items, including kilts, hats, children's wear, ties and pins. There is a full array of knitwear for the whole family, including cashmere, lamb's wool and cotton fabrics. (297-1626)

Turn your style up a notch with some eye-catching bling. The jewellery collection at Vera P. Card, located at 7 and 20 Water St. in St. George's, offers jewellery, watches, figurines, crystal, clocks and gifts from around the world at duty-free prices. Selections are varied, and prices are guaranteed to offer savings over stores in the United States. Jewellery is value-guaranteed against an appraisal of your choice. Vera P. Card features the largest collection of Lladró, M.I. Hummel and Nao-by-Lladró in the islands, along with the complete Swarovski silver-crystal collection. The shop has a wide collection of fine crystal and glass. Their jewellery collection emphasises unusual, high-value stones, as well as exceptional workmanship in gold and silver. There is also a wide collection of beautiful gemstone globes, shipped free to North America. (297-1718 / 295-1729)

Refresh Yourself

After all of that sightseeing and shopping, you are sure to have worked up an appetite. In St. George's, dining options range from lively pubs to world-class restaurants.

Enjoy lunch or sit and watch the sun go down from the terrace of Blackbeard's Hideout, overlooking Achilles Bay, for cocktails or dinner. A popular local spot with casual atmosphere and great food, this true Bermudian experience should not be missed. The place is also good for private functions. (297-1400)

Have a wonderful dining experience in a spacious, open environment at one of Bermuda's largest beaches and best establishments: Clearwater Beach and Gombey's Restaurant & Bar, which has a variety of island foods, cocktails and music, along with warm, friendly staff and rental of snorkel equipment, paddleboats, bikes, umbrellas and chairs. Plan a game of volleyball. Enjoy a walk in the nearby nature reserve. Visit Turtle Beach, just yards away. Gombey's awaits just seven to 10 minutes from the shipping ports and St. George's town — a short drive by bus, minivan or taxi, open Tuesday to Sunday 10 a.m. until late. Catering for special celebrations is available to large and small parties. (293-5092)

With breathtaking views overlooking St. George's Harbour from atop Rose Hill, Griffin's Bistro & Bar is located at The St. George's Club. Join them for lunch or dinner in the newly refurbished Harbour View dining room and enjoy superb food and friendly service. Griffin's is the jewel in the crown of St. George's. (297-4235).

Locals will steer you to another big St. George's landmark. The White Horse Pub & Restaurant is the favourite pub and seafood restaurant in St. George's, well known for its creative and tasteful dishes, friendly service and panoramic views of the St. George's Harbour. They offer covered waterside dining and an outdoor bistro area where you can soak up the sun if desired. They serve a wide selection of fresh local fish, flame-grilled steaks and pasta dishes, as well as your English and Bermudian pub favourites.

When it comes to entertainment, nobody does it better. The White Horse provides live entertainment day and night at the outdoor Native Islander Bar. Sit back and relax to all your favourite songs of the past and present, while enjoying one of the bar's 35 unique signature cocktails made especially for you and found exclusively at the White Horse. When the sun goes down, there is only one thing you need to do, and that's head towards the "LIGHT," Bermuda's newest nightclub, located inside the White Horse. Enjoy state-of-the-art lighting and sound, while you dance the night with Bermuda's top deejays spinning the hottest and latest music from around the world. All you sports fans out there can get wall-to-wall sports coverage of your favourite teams, from morning to night, at Bermuda's No. 1 sports bar in the East End.

Visit the website for more info at www.whitehorsebermuda.com. The White Horse is open seven days a week for lunch and dinner from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. The bar is open until 3 a.m. Takeout is available. (297-1838)

Ready to turn in yet? If so, the accommodations in St. George's are as charming as the rest of the town.

Where to Stay

Nestled atop Rose Hill with spectacular views of St. George's Harbour is The St. George's Club, Bermuda's premier cottage colony and vacation ownership resort, with one- and two-bedroom cottages in the Bermudian architectural style. Guests enjoy beautifully manicured gardens, three swimming pools, tennis courts, restaurant and bar, cycle livery, on-site grocery adjacent to the golf course — currently being updated to championship level — and pink-sand beaches overlooking the UNESCO World Heritage town of St. George and its pristine harbour. (reservations 297-1200, reservations@stgeorgesclub.com; vacation ownership inquiries 297-1222, sales@stgeorgesclub.com; www.stgeorgesclub.com)

DID YOU KNOW? John Roffe, one of the Sea Venture castaways, continued on to Virginia and married Indian princess Pocahontas.

DID YOU KNOW? On Tuesday evenings in summer revellers flock to St. George's for Market Nights to enjoy shopping, food, entertainment and historic re-enactments from May 1 till Sept. 25, 6:30 p.m.-9:30 p.m.

Experience Bermuda and historic St. George's by booking your trip online now!

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