Bermuda Whale Encounters

By Jennifer Gray

Bermuda is on the migration route for humpback whales, and in the spring the complex songs of these animals can be heard off the coast as the whales return from their Caribbean breeding and calving region in the south on their way to the rich feeding grounds in the north. A halfway point on this migration, Bermuda serves them with a rest stop where social lingering, frolicking and feeding are apparent. An excitement fills the air as fishermen report the first sightings of the season. For the people of Bermuda, it's a time to revel in the magnificence of these marine mammals and anticipate a distinctive encounter with nature. Humpback whales are quite acrobatic, and nothing is more awe-inspiring than witnessing a whale breaching through the surface of the ocean in a gargantuan skyward leap followed by an ocean-shifting plunge back into the sea. Anyone who has experienced the presence of whales will have a lasting memory of the occasion, and their soul will be significantly touched forever. With local migration peaking in the month of April, the streets of Bermuda abound with stories of whale encounters as they're observed both at sea and from land. Private boat owners think nothing of setting off with friends and family for the day to be in the company of whales. Environmental-ists keep their journals current, and water tour businesses fill their boats with anxious visitors and stay tuned-in to the marine radio to establish the locations of the greatest whale activity.

At this time of year, I can often be found perched on a warm cliff top on the south shore, with binoculars in hand, hoping to catch a glimpse of these creatures as they cruise down the coastline. On many a day I have been entertained by their fin-slapping, tail lobbing, breaching and sky-hopping —while on other days the only telltale sign of their presence is the soaring fountain of mist erupting from their blow holes as they surface to breathe. These are the moments of solitude I treasure as I contemplate the higher knowledge I'm certain these creatures possess and the astounding intricacies and splendour of the world in which we are a mere component.

Bermuda's history of whales has not always been peaceful; the ocean travellers were hunted for food as early as 1611. Although the industry was small, it was robust and well known in the region, and exhibits at the local museums tell the stories of whale hunters and their tools of the trade. By the end of the 1800s, whales had become scarce around Bermuda and the industry became unprofitable, with the last whale hunted in 1940. Today their numbers have increased, and all marine mammals are protected in local waters. Thankfully, a growing appreciation of them has inspired worldwide conservation and recovering populations. It's actually believed that when whales were more bountiful in the Atlantic, their presence in Bermuda was for a longer duration during the breeding season. Perhaps if the species is allowed to recover to acceptable numbers once again, our descendants can enjoy the presence of whales for months rather than the few weeks we take pleasure in now.

Whale research in Bermuda has put us on the map, with the first whale song ever recorded done in 1953 by Bermudian Frank Watlington. This work was followed by visits from well-known scientist Roger Payne, who continued studies of whale songs locally for a number of years. Other researchers studied the unique markings on the flukes of whales and used these identifying characteristics to recognise groups of whales throughout their range. Today research is ongoing to better understand local feeding habits and social behaviours, and the Bermuda Aquarium, Museum & Zoo monitors threats and trends through their stranding programme. The stranding programme and accounts from local boaters and fishermen have illustrated that in addition to migrating humpbacks, a number of species appear in our waters throughout the year and include minke whales, sperm whales, pygmy sperm whales, Cuvier's beaked whales, finback whales and oceanic dolphins. Sightings and strandings of whales are unpredictable — and as a small, volcanic island system rising dramatically from the deep abyssal plain of the Sargasso Sea in the Northwest Atlantic, it only makes sense that we be surrounded by these oceanic wanderers and not so surprising that we are rarely aware of their presence.

Should you be in Bermuda during the month of April, be sure to take a few moments at a high point on the south shore or join a whale-watching trip out to sea. Whales are superbly adapted to their watery world and recognise that we are essentially helpless in it; they accommodate our presence with their playfulness, sophisticated echolocating abilities and curious gentle behaviours, and provide us with cherished memories. There is perhaps no other place in the world where you can be on an island coast with beautiful pink sand beneath your feet, blue skies overhead and turquoise seas all around, observing the splendid performances of whales.

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