Shades of Bermuda

Colourful Bermuda offers a variegated palette of attractions to discover and enjoy.

It was blue blood that put the pink beaches of Bermuda on the world map of red-hot vacation spots. The blood was that of Princess Louise, marchioness of Lorne and duchess of Argyll. The fourth daughter of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert fell in love with Bermuda on a visit in 1883. So enchanted was she by Bermuda's voluptuous vistas that she urged her high-placed friends to vacation there. Soon everyone who was anyone was heading off to these islands. The tourism ball began to roll and it hasn't stopped yet.

That's because one-of-a-kind Bermuda boasts attractions and amenities that you just won't find in other destinations. Where else could you meet a ghost, play a world-class round of golf, travel back in time to a 400-year-old village, discover centuries-old shipwrecks, cultivate your creative side, get close to Mother Nature, cuddle with your honey on a secluded pink beach, or bond with your kids on a holiday none will ever forget?

"Bermuda is a small place, but there's so much to see and do," says Kay Latter, who operates Byways Bermuda, a sightseeing company, with her husband, Ray Latter.

From manicured golf courses and coral-tinged beaches to luxury resorts and spas, Bermuda is a mecca of vacation pleasures. Scratch the surface of these bucolic isles and you discover many Bermudas, each with its own delightful style.

Mysterious Bermuda

Who hasn't heard of the planes and ships that ventured into the Bermuda Triangle and disappeared forever? But did you know that many people place the tip of that infamous triangle at Clocktower Mall, in Bermuda's historic Royal Naval Dockyard?

Visit the West End shopping and entertainment complex and see for yourself. The tip of the triangle is marked by an enormous hand-carved sculpture depicting the sea and listing all of the vessels that have gone missing in the mysterious region, defined by Bermuda, Florida and Puerto Rico.

More than 1,000 people on 100 craft have been reported missing in the Bermuda Triangle. One ship, Mary Celeste, was found floating in the triangle — but no one was onboard. Another legend was born after five military aircraft set off from Florida and were never heard from again.

Brave enough to take a closer look? Brace yourself with a Dark 'n' Stormy cocktail, and board a glass-bottom boat for a night cruise. Jaws drop as floodlights beneath the boat illuminate the devilish deep.

The Triangle is not the only place in Bermuda with connections to the netherworld. Frightened by the eerie screeching of cahows — now Bermuda's national bird — early explorers warned mariners to avoid the archipelago they called the Isles of Devils.

Devil's Hole, moreover, was Bermuda's first bona fide tourist attraction. The odd noises that emanate from the sinkhole near Harrington Sound as water rises and falls spooked 19th-century tourists, who went away imagining they had heard the moans of Satan.

Old Scratch, it seems, has been hanging around Bermuda for awhile. In the 1600s, he really kicked up his cloven hoofs as witchcraft mania washed across the islands. Stop by the Old State House when you visit St. George's. Here, Gov. Josiah Foster condemned Jeane Gardiner for allegedly practising black arts. Gardiner was drowned — after three attempts. Other witches were burned at the stake on Gibbet Island near quaint Flatts Village.

No wonder Bermuda has so many ghosts! In fact, almost every cottage or house in Bermuda that dates back more than 100 years seems to harbour a friendly ghost on the premises. Several seem to have a literary bent. Noel Coward reportedly wrote his famed play, Blithe Spirit, based on his Bermuda encounters with a beautiful French ghost. Playwright Eugene O'Neill also reported "unusual events" while living in Spithead, a lovely old house built on Harbour Road by the 18th-century privateer Hezekiah Frith.

The Old Rectory in St. George's, now a bed-and-breakfast, welcomes a musical spirit rumoured to play an invisible harpsichord; and Camden, the official residence of Bermuda's premier, is where some have spotted the ethereal former wife of a government official as she appears to stroll along the grounds on moonless nights.

In the attic nursery at Verdmont, an 18th-century mansion owned by the Bermuda National Trust, you may come upon a wraith that walks among toys still scattered on the floor. The 300-year-old Georgian-style home is filled with antiques and is a must for anyone who appreciates the treasures of the past.

Historic Bermuda

With more than 400 years of settlement under its belt, Bermuda is especially appealing to visitors who are enchanted by the notion of travelling back in time.

"We've got more and more discerning visitors coming to Bermuda," says Tim Rogers, who leads tourists on walking tours. "They enjoy the beaches and the restaurants, but they're also keenly interested in Bermuda's history and culture."

Devonshire Parish boasts a number of historic sites. Old Devonshire Church is thought to date from the early 17th century. Reconstructed after an explosion in 1970, it is a national icon. Also worth a visit is Palmetto House, one of the few remaining examples of an early 18th-century cruciform home.

Nostalgic for the days when trains traversed the land? Take a ticket at the Bermuda Railway Museum, in Hamilton Parish. Once trains rumbled through woodlands, over cliffs, past beaches and along dunes. Today, the route is a nature trail, divided into seven scenic sections. Each takes one-and-a-half to three hours to walk. Along the way, study native plants, see pretty views, and soak up the balmy sun.

Paget Parish provides another portal to the past. Waterville, headquarters of the Bermuda National Trust, dates to 1725 and was the home of the Triminghams, whose descendants operated the biggest department stores in Bermuda for more than 150 years. Waterville's drawing and dining rooms are full of antiques, china and art. Amongst the attractions gracing the well-tended grounds is a lovely Victorian rose garden.

Make time for a stop at the Bermuda Historical Society Museum, on Queen Street in Hamilton. It houses a small but impressive collection of antique Bermudian silver and cedar furniture. Whilst at Queen Street, stop by the Perot Post Office, headquarters of 19th-century Postmaster William B. Perot, who produced the first Bermudian postage stamp.

Sessions House, an 1815-era Georgian building with an imposing clock tower, is where the House of Assembly and Supreme Court meet. You can visit the Parliament Street landmark Monday to Friday 9:00 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. and 2:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m. In the downstairs court, Bermuda judges wear wigs and red robes, carrying on a tradition that dates to the 17th century.

Do not forget the forts. Sir Thomas Gates, one of the original Sea Venture colonists, built Gates Fort early in the 17th century. Also impressive is Fort St. Catherine, which towers over the beach where the shipwreck survivors came aground four centuries ago and founded the Town of St. George, now a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Fort Hamilton dates to the 1860s and offers great views of the city and harbour. The Bermuda Islands Pipe Band greets visitors with its Skirling Ceremony at noon on Monday from Nov. 1 to March 30. Dancers move briskly to the bagpipe sounds of Scotland and Ireland. Admission to the fort is free; open 9:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.

In Sandys Parish, Scaur Hill Fort and Park affords visitors majestic vistas of Great Sound and Ely's Harbour. The British Army built the fort between the 1860s and the 1880s to protect against potential American attacks. The park is open daily 10:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.

Royal Naval Dockyard is the former headquarters of the British Navy in Bermuda and now houses shops and cafés. Whilst there, don't forget to visit the Bermuda Maritime Museum, found within the walls of Bermuda's largest fort, The Keep. The museum is home to the country's most extensive collection of artefacts. From 9:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., visitors have a marvellous time exploring.

Cultural Bermuda

If museums tempt you, you will be thrilled with Bermuda's offerings. Chief amongst them is the multimillion-dollar Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art, in Paget Parish.

The 16,000-square-foot facility has three gallery spaces that feature exhibitions by local and Masterworks' own resident artists. Also in the collections are works by Winslow Homer, Georgia O'Keefe, Marsden Hartley and others. "Many of the visitors we have talked to have stated an interest in returning to Bermuda as a result of visiting this facility," says Tom Butterfield, museum director.

Learn more about the artists who visited or lived in Bermuda by perusing the shelves of the Bermuda National Library in Hamilton. Amongst the collections are rare books and current periodicals and newspapers from Bermuda and abroad.

Natural Bermuda

This "heavenly, breathtaking" island, as Niamah Denbrook, formerly of the Department of Tourism, calls it, is a lush haven for lovers of the great outdoors.

If you hike, check out the four-mile trail from Dockyard to Somerset. It takes you across the Gilbert Nature Reserve, past the Royal Naval Cemetery, which dates to the 19th century. The hike allows ample opportunities to take refreshing dips in the ocean and enjoy fabulous views of Great Sound.

Those who wish to hike with the locals may fall in with the Walking Club of Bermuda. Visitors are welcome on Sunday morning. Find the schedule at www.walk.free.bm.

Bountiful rewards await those who take to Bermuda on foot. Red, black and buttonwood mangrove forests pepper the island. One of the best appears at Mangrove Lake, between Smith and Hamilton parishes. Mangroves also star at Lover's Lake.

To see Bermuda as the early settlers did, pay a visit to Paget Marsh. The 25-acre preserve is a palmetto-and-cedar forest with distinctive mangroves. An elevated wooden boardwalk takes you past the pond and its peat marsh. It also gives you an opportunity to see a wide array of wildlife and birds.

Orchid lovers should take time to explore Firefly Nature and Freer Cox Memorial reserves, in Devonshire Parish. This 10-acre preserve is home to many animals as well.

The Botanical Gardens, in Paget Parish, are magnificent. Species range from lush, subtropical foliage to cacti. Established in 1898 at Camden House, the gardens are open without charge from dawn to dusk.

Blue Hole Park, part of Hamilton Parish's Walsingham Nature Reserve, is known for its palm groves and a veritable carpet of elephant ears. Be sure to explore Tom Moore's Jungle.

Mangroves and more are on hand at Spittal Pond, in Smith's Parish. The 34-acre reserve features trails through wetlands and along the south shore. It is the location of the oldest evidence of humans on the island. If you make your way along the coastal path, you find Spanish Rock and the carved initials and date "RP" and "1543." In addition, Spittal Pond Reserve is Bermuda's largest bird sanctuary.

Wild Bermuda

Spittal's 8-acre pond and surrounding woodlands provide a perfect habitat for resident and migratory birds. The great blue heron is just one of the rare birds you may see. Also look for coots, ducks, egrets and warblers.

Paget Marsh is a favourite of birders, as are Warwick Pond and Seymour's Pond. Birders also flock to Astwood Cove, in Warwick Parish, to watch the annual seabird migration in May and early June.

The Bermuda Audubon Society, established in 1954, logs sightings and plans outings. Each December, its bird count lists as many as 200 species, depending on migration patterns. Of course, you don't have to be a bird watcher to appreciate the wildlife.

Learn about the briny deep by visiting the Bermuda Aquarium, Museum & Zoo, in Flatts Village. Built in 1926, it is one of the oldest continuously operating aquariums in the New World. It features an intriguing look at the wildlife of Bermuda, especially native fishes, exotic reptiles, pink flamingos, other birds and a giant replica of a local living coral reef. In a vast flight cage, animals roam around at arm's length. Bermuda's Turtle Project, sponsored by BAMZ and the Caribbean Conservation Corporation, is world-renowned.

Once the aquarium has whetted your appetite, check out the Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute, on the water east of downtown Hamilton. Be astounded by sophisticated multimedia demonstrations on creatures of which you may never have heard. "The more information visitors have about the ocean environment, the more we are able to protect it," says Director Wendy Tucker, daughter of famed undersea archaeologist Teddy Tucker.

Another way to explore Bermuda's magnificent sea life is to meet the tamed and trained fish at Hartley's Under Sea Adventures, fun for the entire family. Shallow-water helmet diving is the safest undersea adventure anyone can do, and yet everyone — even certified divers — find the experience exhilarating.

Fun-Loving Bermuda

Bermuda offers many opportunities for snorkellers and scuba divers, especially those interested in discovering historic shipwrecks. So many ships have gone down on the reefs off Bermuda that the destination is known as the shipwreck diving capital of the Atlantic.

Other ways to occupy your days? Hang out at the beach. Bermuda has miles and miles of the most scenic beaches. Tobacco Bay, in St. George's, is one of them, a secluded, sheltered strand that is a favourite with visitors and locals alike, especially families. Tobacco Bay Concession enhances your quest for the perfect tan, a refreshing swim or some snorkelling adventure around the rocks. With clear, shallow water — safe for kids — Tobacco Bay also includes a deck for dining, a beer-and-wine bar, snorkel gear, umbrellas and loungers.

Also fun for the whole family is a close-up encounter with the ocean's most intelligent and adorable denizens. Dolphin Quest Bermuda, at Royal Naval Dockyard's Bermuda Maritime Museum, introduces you to friendly dolphins. Have a face-to-face meeting, either in the water or at dockside, with these huge, graceful marine mammals. Children love the experience, which converts adults into children, too.

What other fascinating ocean dwellers might you meet in Bermuda? The best way to find out is to plunge in with a snorkel. Discover the exciting features of Snorkel Park, at Dockyard, with a tropical beach, amenities, and equipment such as snorkel gear, paddleboats, kayaks, inflatable toys and water slides. Explore a natural coral reef, beautiful tropical fish and a sunken sailboat. The Snuba tours make unique adventures.

Underground Bermuda

Don't feel like getting wet? Want to take a break from the sun? Look for more wonders underneath Bermuda.

The limestone that capped off Bermuda's volcanic origins also left the atoll permeated with caves and caverns. Each of the 150 caves found throughout the territory has its own impressive display of stalactite and stalagmite formations. Unfortunately, many are accessible only through underwater exploration and are not available to the general public.

Two great places to learn about underground Bermuda are Crystal Caves and Fantasy Caves, in Hamilton Parish's Baileys Bay. Crystal Caves opened in 1908 and is one of the largest cave systems on the island. "The delicacy of the formations and the quantity of formations make them world-renowned," says Dave Summers, president of Crystal & Fantasy Caves and an active member of the International Show Caves Association.

In Fantasy Cave, startling white crystal formations are viewed from a floating walkway above the lakes. The foremost decorations give the appearance of orange chandeliers.

Other caves accessible to the public are Prospero's Cave and Cathedral Cave, beneath Hamilton Parish's Grotto Bay Beach Resort, which organises regular "cave crawls" for interested guests. Prospero's beautiful underground lake alone is worth the visit.

As you Experience Bermuda, don't miss these attractions:

Bermuda Aquarium, Museum & Zoo
40 North Shore Road
Flatts, Hamilton Parish
Tel: 293-2727
E-mail: marketing.bzs@gov.bm
Website: www.bamz.org

The Bermuda Aquarium, Museum & Zoo is one of Bermuda's premium visitor attractions, dedicated to inspiring appreciation and care of island environments. A treasure trove of native fishes, exotic reptiles and birds including pink flamingos, the facility offers education and entertainment in a beautiful setting. The North Rock exhibit is a 140,000-gallon replica of a local living coral reef. A path guides visitors through the Caribbean exhibit, a vast flight cage where animals roam at arm's length. The Australasia exhibit includes lemurs, wallabies and tree kangaroos. Children love the touch pool in the Local Tails exhibit, and the Discovery Cove is an interactive haven for children of all ages. Enjoy the spectacular view of Harrington Sound from the coastal walkway. Learn about Bermuda's geology and habitats in the Natural History Museum. BAMZ opens daily except Christmas Day, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. (last admission 4 p.m.). Adults pay $10; children ages 5-12, $5.

Dolphin Quest Bermuda
Bermuda Maritime Museum Royal Naval Dockyard
Tel: 234-4464
Fax: 234-4992
E-mail: dqbermuda@dolphinquest.org
Website: www.dolphinquest.org

Dolphin Quest Bermuda takes you on a journey into the intriguing world of the dolphin through face-to-face encounters both in the water and dockside. Discover an atmosphere of adventure mixed with education and a wide range of encounters for adults, children, families and groups. Dolphin Quest is open daily, all year, 9:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.

Gombey's Restaurant & Bar
Clearwater Beach
Southside St. David's
Tel: 293-5092

Have a great dining experience in a spacious, open environment at one of Bermuda's largest beaches and best establishments: Clearwater Beach and Gombey's Restaurant & Bar. Gombey's has a variety of island foods, cocktails and music, with warm, friendly staff and the rental of snorkel equipment, paddleboats, bikes, umbrellas and chairs. Plan a game of volleyball. Enjoy a walk in the nearby nature reserve. Visit Turtle Beach, just yards away. Gombey's awaits just seven to 10 minutes from the cruise-ship port and St. George's town, a short drive by bus, minivan or taxi. Gombey's opens Tuesday to Sunday 10 a.m. until late. Catering for special celebrations is available to large and small parties.

Snorkel Park
Royal Naval Dockyard
Tel: 234-6989

Come discover all of the exciting features of Snorkel Park. Just minutes away from bus and ferry stops, visitors will gasp in surprise as they emerge through the limestone tunnel onto a tropical beach setting, complete with modern beach equipment and amenities.

Whether you are looking to kick back and relax or to have some fun, Snorkel Park is the place not to be missed. From snorkel gear, paddleboats and kayaks to inflatable toys and water slides for the kids, they have something for everyone. Adventurous visitors can try the fun, new, underwater scooters; take a Snuba tour; or hop aboard the banana boat for a wet and wild ride over open water. Beneath the waves, you can explore the wonders of a natural coral reef, showcasing beautiful tropical fish and a sunken sloop, appropriately named Seahorse.

Back on shore, come join us at Hammerheads Bar, Bermuda's newest hot spot for day and night enjoyment. Sample our local rum potions as you gaze over the turquoise seas. Feeling hungry? Just pop downstairs to the grill for a variety of tasty dishes and snacks. Snorkel Park opens daily from 9 a.m., admission is free, and the friendly staff will do their best to make your visit memorable. They look forward to seeing you soon.

Tobacco Bay Concession
St. George's
Tel: 297-2756

Tobacco Bay is a beautiful, sheltered, secluded beach — a favourite with visitors and locals alike and especially popular with families. If you are looking for the perfect tan, a refreshing swim or a snorkelling adventure around the rocks, Tobacco Bay is the place to visit. The clear, shallow water ensures safety for kids. Tobacco Bay's facilities include a deck dining area that specialises in local cuisine, a beer-and-wine bar, a gift shop and braiding services. Tobacco Bay also rents snorkel gear, umbrellas and loungers to make your day comfortable and fun. Tobacco Bay is the family fun place in St. George's.

Make your Bermuda trip even more memorable with dolphins! Dolphin Quest offers fun, interactive dolphin encounter programs for all. Book your adventure today!

Have a fun-filled vacation with a cycle from Oleander. If you can ride a bicycle, you can easily ride an Oleander scooter. See all of Bermuda...reserve one today!

Getting Around Bermuda Relax, enjoy, save and see Bermuda by bus. A blue or pink pole indicates bus stops. If the pole is topped with blue, the bus travels from Hamilton; if the pole is topped pink, the route is toward Hamilton.